Rosé and weddings part 2

Waking up to the sound of church bells  and going on a short wander to collect the pastries for breakfast is not a bad way to start the day. Ahh good croissants and pain au chocolat!!!

The morning is also a cool time of the day and sitting outside on the verandah with coffee and pastry was wonderful. We had the wedding practice at Le Mayssa at 10.30. It was also a time to meet Céciles mother Elizabeth, younger sister Léa, brother Jeromé and to catch up with her dad Peter and sister Flora. 

We were marshalled by the celebrant Cheryl-Lyn, an American who has lived in Cannes for 15 years as a minister for her church. I didn’t find the name of the church but we did have a discussion about the changes in popularity of religion in the area and the fluctuations in numbers of adherents. People come and go into the region and at the moment there are about 200 active in her particular faith with 5 pastors. Numbers have been as high as 600 with 15.  Similar to a lot of similar churches elsewhere I think. We rehearsed the walk in, the people placement and then she guided us all through the order of the service. All went well until she started reading the bits about two people becoming one. Quelle Horreur!!! Cécile queried this. Non! we do not want to say that. We will not become one, we are still two. Cheryl-Lyn argued that “why are you being married then?” We the audience smiled and watched and listened and let them work it out. They did and the wording was altered. No yelling or buffing was heard but we did sense the odd shrug.

 The setting was wonderful and the view was a constant distraction from formal chatter and organisational stuff such as table placement, awnings – Nick and Cécile were finally convinced by the manager to have the roof on over the dining area. A good decision as the evenings are cooler. Elizabeth was in charge along with the Manager and we were just part of the entourage. 

 It is a difficult balance when  a couple are getting married to tread the path of “knowing through long life and wisdom”what may be best but “letting them have the event as their show which it is”. I remember at our wedding, a long time ago, we did not want a high table so ended up not really knowing where to sit. We were determined though. J My mother probably thought –“I told you” and she would have been right!!

There was a small issue when I wandered down to the drinks terrace and started chatting to another group there. 2 women and a man. The women were English and looked, like us, to be organising an event. I started talking to the male of the group. Just normal chatter, until it transpired they were planning a wedding for Saturday!!!. Alarm bells clanged. The wedding drinks were to be on this terrace at about 6 pm. My mind calculated and concluded that left us a very small window for our drinks if the wedding started at 4.45pm but I was not in charge. A wee bit stressed but not my concern, yet!!  I was concerned though but assumed it would work out as clashes like this just do not happen. The women came over and we discussed the issue. Once we had got past the  “your event can’t have been booked when we booked ours” stance. In other words we were in first!!, and I assured them our booking was done months ago, so we were in first, we discussed timing and logistics etc and then they remembered that their daughter’s wedding drinks were on the terrace  on the Friday evening, NOT the  Saturday. I was very pleased that Elizabeth had not been close enough to hear the conversation as that would really have raised the stress levels. In hindsight I should have known that men are only peripheral to the organisation of major events in a family and that he probably did not really know what was what.

We were all meeting up for lunch and Nick had to drop his big bag at our apartment so he took Cécile and her Mum and sisters up there. Elizabeth has a room in her house in Nice as a very successful and busy Airbnb so it was of interest to her. We wandered along the water front with Peter. First ice-cream of the holiday was Citron and it was good. Also first dip of the feet into the Mediterranean for this trip and it was divine and sooo clear.

Lunch was at a long table in a local restaurant. The Palmier. A continuation of our attempt to test all restaurants in Villefranche sur mer. Not a concrete goal and not financially viable but did allow creative thinking when planning eating out. The reality was we developed favourites and those with shade were popular.  Duncan and Cam had their own food focus and it does not really change. Duncan was tempted by the  Tartare steak but followed tradition and had a hamburger  as did Cam and Geoff and they were good. The Tartare Italienne that Flora ordered tasted good though and much better than the one Ian had bought in Chamonix.  We toasted family and enjoyed the first BIG family meal. 

Cam and Jean had a "Draw to Learn Francais "  book which was passed round with everyone doing their own Matisse or Chagall to go with a particular phrase. I chose La Bibliotheque!

  Part way through Jonathan rang to say he was  sitting at  the bar opposite our apartment so I wandered/ puffed up to meet him and bring him down for lunch and to get him into the swing of his Mediterranean experience. He had intended to catch the bus and train to Villefranche but his number 10 bus was stopped by an incident at the port in Nice and everyone had to get off. It was then easier to taxi. It was so wonderful to see him here. 

  

He decided to try the steak tartare. It was declared many times better than the lamb chops he had chosen at his posh meal at Mussolinis  white wedding cake palace in Rome the night before. The start of his analysis of the products of agriculture in the region. Purely for business reasons.

Some of us had a wee siesta in the afternoon and then went swimming, while others worked. One, David, arrived in VF from London and then went on a very hot bike ride to get in touch with the area. He arrived at our apartment very hot looking and returned to his own one for a swim and cool off. There is a saying about mad dogs and Englishmen …..!   

Some of us, the young ones, had their siesta at the beach and Geoff and I went down there later. The water was wonderful but there was something missing so on the return walk I bought a bright yellow lilo for €8. No window in it but perfect for just floating around.   

  About 6pm we left the beach and the kids were in charge of choosing a restaurant. It was going to be just a pizza but the Natural restaurant on our steps to the sea lured them so they stopped there. I suspect they were exhausted and could not be bothered moving any further. Geoff and I went up and changed, collected Jo and we settled into a very good repast with David and Alice who walked in as well.  The numbers were growing. For some of us the 4^th restaurant. Risotto with truffle oil was rather good.

A very hot night and I think none of us slept really well but we coped. Jonathan was up early and explored the area bringing back bread and a paper.



Doing his walk to make it possible to keep the good food intake balanced with exercise. He finished his proposal and sent it off.  David had planned to bike to Eze   early in the morning but when I rang I was relieved to find he had just woken up and was planning a slow day. Excellent, those kind of days are needed. That didn’t put us off though so Geoff, Jon and I set off to catch the train to go to Eze. About 10 minutes up the coast. It ended up being more of a walk than a train ride as the train was retard for track  issues  so we walked to Beaulieu sur mer,  On the way I think . I touched the gate at Keith Richards old bach. Jonathan found a bank, Geoff had a haircut and beard trim and I looked at the world. It was hot.

We did catch a bus up the hill from there as we may have English ancestors but we are not stupid. Some of our ancestors were also Scots and they are much more sensible despite their reputation for frugality. The €1.50 bus fare was within any sane Scots budget in the middle of the day on the Riviera in Summer. The town was worth it and not only because it enabled us to hunt out a  Fragonard perfumery and do some vital shopping for those at home, but also because we could sit on a cool seat in the cactus garden and look at a beautiful wide view of the coast. It is stunning. The area is very dry but not barren and although I am not a cactus fan there were some pretty amazing examples in the garden in the old part of the town. One of those situations where you think, that is too much to spend to walk round a garden and then you remember how much it cost to get here and the cost is just 2 cups of coffee.

The views up to the Grande Corniche - there are actually three Corniche, is spectacular  and at times the roads are very hard to discern as the terrain is rugged and blocky.  Villefranche sur mer is on the Basse Corniche, Eze is on the Moyenne Corniche and then there is the high road - The Grande  Corniche.

 After lunch including Salade Nicoise and Rosé and Desperado beer we followed Nietzches trail down the hill, smiling encouragingly at the few  very hot and red faced people trudging up.

There was a small dispute at the station as we waited for the train back to VF. I went off to buy ice creams and water, came back with water, lemonade and one icecream. Geoff had said he wanted one, Jon had said No and I had been flexi but decided I only needed a drink. Geoff was pleased with his ice cream but also not pleased as here I was again tempting him with things I know he cannot resist.  He knows his self control is weak and if I don’t offer he will not have to refuse or accept. If I hadn’t asked and had bought one for me he would have wanted to share and I would have had less which would have deprived me!!!!! No more asking. (I have decided this often but being the generous caring soul that I am I find it hard not to offer.)

We retrieved our togs etc from the apartment, collected up the: picnic food of Poulet roti, vin rosé and bier, le pain, la buerre, les tomates,  et la terrine; the lilo; our togs and towels and headed to the beach for the pre wedding picnic. Jon, David and Cathy arrived a bit later. Alice was sleeping as the young ones had had a hard day at Monaco. 

                                        

                                         

The gathering was wonderful with many of the guests for the wedding meeting up. Some we “knew” from meeting on previous trips to Zurich, or from Facebook or from New Zealand including Zane who was at school with Nick and Andrew who had stayed with us in Christchurch. My lilo floated, the temperature was perfect and the water sublime and a bunch of happy people with everyone relaxing including the main participants as everything was done including nails. The weather was good and what more was there to worry about. Nothing !!!!!

Next day the wedding.

Nick spent the night under our roof --- small traditions should be followed!

Oh the delights of sun, family, rosé and celebrations - part 1.

We are feeling so lucky. For the past 10 days we have enjoyed a dégustation of the very best experiences that gathering special people together can create. There was wine involved as well but it was strategically placed and Rosé from Provence is very good and there are so many kinds. Some occasions warranted something more bubbly and we included a good champagne, not too expensive, just tasting good and having a good bubbles/volume balance. Not really the time of year or the food styles for a heavier red but some was seen and the lighter Provence whites made an appearance especially on the night of the greatest festivities.  As in many gatherings some preferred beer and one with tequila included, named desperado, developed some fans. The most spectacular options were the cocktails though especially those which incorporated lime, fruit and some salad vegetables with the alcohol sufficient to be called a daiquiri or a Mojito.

The water was also good enough to drink as “l’eau la table” but some with fancier tastes opted for the Perrier. Some of us did think that was a bit pretentious but we are in France and we will live as they do and accept that some people like water with a posh name.  When we were young and lived in Merrin street, we had our own well and when others had problems with their water they came to us. We thought our water was very special then and it was free.

Any way – the longer tale. We arrived at Nice airport after a long hop and skip flight from Christchurch. Some other travellers had also done the same trek and probably reflecting my naivety I thought they looked similar to us. They were just slightly younger but for both of the couples travelling together this was their first big OE adventure. They had visited Australia but never beyond that so they were in “taking pictures of everything land” and had the look of wonder in their eyes as they headed off on their big Insight tour for 4 weeks. I felt calm and lucky but still with a flutter of wonder in my head.

We were tired, but not too much so, as even though I do not recall having a lot of sleep I had been assiduous in taking my No Jet lag pills on time.  Geoff had slept and dozed a bit but I managed to force the pills into his mouth at the required intervals. I don’t care if they are semi magic potions but I felt good at the end of all the flying and continued to feel good. Maybe I can be the new marketing agent for them? I can fake a non-jet lagged smile if need be.

I knew that Jean and Cam’s flight from Canada via London arrived about the same time as ours but I was respecting their wish to be independent in getting to Ville Franche sur mer or the hive of Butcher family on the Riviera.  They may need the quiet time before the family onslaught. We walked out of Nice airport to catch the bus to the train and there they were!!  Hugging etc over we decided to walk the 750metres/1.2 km to the railway station rather than wait in the long queue for the bus to the station.  Picture this –middle of the day in Nice, hot sun, and happy travellers setting off on a wee stroll dragging suitcases or lugging packs. Good for the first 500 meters then we had to make decisions and we discussed but made the wrong ones. Up shot was we walked an unnecessary 1 km after following Geoff’s I-phone advice and that of a “local who was British” and finally back tracked to get to the station in time to wait in the queue to buy tickets. Done,  and in the train, standing in the vestibule with Jeanie counting the three stops to our stop and thinking out loud how weird it would be if Nick appeared. At stop 2 he did!!. Dark glasses and shorts and a smile. He coughed and laughed  etc…and the Mama in me smiled.  

Railway station in distance but old town in front

We walked from the station at Villefranche sur mer, marvelling at the beautiful views. The sea is actually azure. Jean, Cam and Nick diverted to a bar on the waterfront to meet Ellie and Duncan who had arrived earlier in the day but being unable to get into their Airbnb until 3 had spent time closer to the water feeling summery and in holiday mode. Geoff and I set off up many stairs – towards our apartment at the top of the “vieux ville”. So old and beautiful. The puffing was all to do with tiredness and heat nothing to do with being unfit. Our landlord was not yet available so we sat at the bar over the road, and had a beer while we waited. Ellie and Duncan wandered past enroute downhill and looking for their siblings.  6 weeks ago we saw them in Oldenburg and here they were in the south of France strolling past. Such a small town allows serendipity to flourish.

Quite happy waiting

green shutters with windows are our bathroom

The apartment is in an excellent position but Geoff and I both think that the couple who own it are trying to make a quick buck. It  can sleep 6 people in 2 bedrooms and 2 pull out couches in the lounge  and the kitchen. The bare necessities were provided but this did not include a broom or instructions on  rubbish etc. It would also have been useful to have had a supply of laundry powder and even pepper and salt or oil  for the kitchen. The basic things that are a nuisance to have to buy when you are travelling.  So the next people now have laundry stuff and pepper and salt and tea bags and coffee to fit the machine or the plunger etc. The fridge did have some opened milk in it but that was about it as far as start up things. The view of the rooftops close by is fantastic- terracotta of various shapes and hues. The small balcony off the lounge has two chairs and a table, just big enough for the wine and cheese plate or the croissants and coffee.

 This balcony makes a wonderful place for people watching as they walk up from the old town

Figure 3just below advertising was our viewing place

         

    

The view is between the roofs to the bay and beyond to the foot of Cap Ferat.  It is a narrow view but well framed. This balcony makes a wonderful place for people watching as they walk up from the old town. You listen to the voices from your secret place above and can watch without being watched.  The community nosey parkers could have a field day. The kitchen has large French windows which open out to a view of the square at the top of the old town as does the toilet/bathroom. Cleaning your teeth as you watch people chatting under the old olive tree or at the bar. This is in your face community connecting. The kitchen was often cooler than the rest of the house  especially when we had all the windows in the house open.  Jonathan even managed to finish some work there. The square, actually a “Place” and connection place of a number of streets and passages is a very busy space and the motor bikes roaring/buzzing round at night  made sleeping a wee challenge. No aircon so the windows were open but the sounds then came in. On Thursday night it sounded as if one particular scooter hooligan was roaring round and round and round. We shrugged.

In the Place there is a bar/tabac – cheap drinks. A boulangerie --- very good the first day but she then went on holiday. I bought butter there and it was the whitest butter I have ever seen that still declared itself to be butter. Tasted good though and the small rivets holding the paper folds together epitomised the French touch. The Butcher at the top of the steps had beautiful meat and even my own resident butcher and meat connoisseur, Jonathan, was impressed with the quality and the range and the presentation. He bought sauscison and sausages but we had to look up “dinde” to work out what some of the sausages were. They were tasty so it didn’t  really matter that they were turkey.

 A fishmonger was open some mornings from his cart and a small vegetable stall was a few steps down but for any other food it was a walk down the steps to the Casino supermarché in the old town.  A 5 minute walk for a paper, a bread and pastries and anything else. We did later discover there were more shops at about the same level as the apartment but in the newer part of town and the fruit and extras market on the grand terrace had some very impressive food from olives, cheese, paella complete with rice – much to David’s disgust, honey, bread etc. This market was only a 3 days a week thing so for the first few days we did not see it. We went a little café mad. The coffee was good, the rosés were light and varied and so quaffable and there were so many occasions to sit and share them.

The apartment the 2 girls and their men were sharing was a bit further up the hill with views you devour.

The whole bay and beyond from a terrace with loungers and table. A wee bit further to walk to the sea but when you got back so relaxing. Geoff and I had one night there after they had all left and Geoff did not leave once we had arrived. I went out for wine and bread and some salad things but it was wonderful just sitting. He was writing housing stuff but seemed very relaxed doing that in such a place.  A very different kind of space to the old town situation but maybe by then we were ready for that.

We settled in to our apartment and then descended in to the town for the first of many family gatherings around a table with a glass, some olives or such things and just revelling in a beautiful place. It was wonderful.

First family toast on the waterfront at La Dolce Vita, but Nick wanted a restaurant with lasagne so we went wandering onto the back streets and found one, Café le Rade. He didn’t order Lasagne but we did have snails, and fish and Rosé. Nick returned to Nice and the rest of us retreated to our beds feeling amazingly alert   considering we had come from many different places and for Geoff and I this was our first real bed for about 48 hours.

The bay is deep and enclosed by two capes with many stunning old villas – most well cared for but some looking tired. The old citadel is at one edge of the small harbour and you can see another castle high above the corniche routes round the coast. It feels small and safe but when a big cruise boat arrives it seems to dominate the bay –  and you notice the voices and  can recognise the passengers off the boat. The buildings are predominantly the terracotta and lemon you associate with warm places, with blue or green shutters.  Some of the buildings are new and slightly less beautiful. Ugly rectangular statements of someone. Others are smothered in bougainvillea, with lemon and olives trees in the gardens, and you can imagine women in flowing white or pale coloured linen clothes living in them and sitting and writing, drinking pastis or tea and feeling arty. Ahhh.

The next day we had wedding practice, meet Céciles family, and the rest of our family arriving – the real business would begin.