Wednesday, July 30, 2014

Family times in new places

Our children grow and move away and create their own lives. It’s what we want for them but the transitions and the results can be challenging. We love that they are off getting on with life being good people, having fun and enjoying life but we miss having them close. This is true whether they have moved to Wellington or Wuppertal or Oldenburg or Edmonton, or London or wherever. Kiwi parents in particular have this dilemma as we are so far from the other places in the world and no matter how special our country is there are so many other places to be.
We have to factor into our retirement plans the challenges of keeping in touch either using technology tools or by visiting and getting really up close. We are lucky enough to have 3 children who have taken up the travel challenge. Nick and Cécile are back in Christchurch at the moment but we loved staying with them when they were in Zurich and getting to know about their lives there and explore their places. Duncan and Ellie spent time in London and Oxford and we had an excuse to meet with them there. Jean and Cam are in Canada and that is now on the must visit list but on this trip we are only catching up with Ellie and Duncan who are now in Oldenburg.
Visiting your children is fun but it also reminds you of the change of role. These people are not your “children” anymore they are very special adults and it is a challenge to make sure you remember that. I am trying. This is their space and we are the guests and it is a wonderful feeling. Mama with benefits.
Ellie had arrived home from her choir practise when we arrived and Duncan was also home from his daily commute to Aurich where he is working for Enercon a wind turbine manufacturer.
P1000134The apartment is in Cloppenburger Strasse and again I tried to restrain my smile at the name.
Cloppenburger sounds sort of solid but filling. The flat is huge and on the second floor or a building facing a fairly major street with lots of trees.
 

 
P1000003 - CopyThey have a lovely balcony which faces out from the back of the building and overlooks the gardens and trees of many other houses as well as a cycle/ pedestrian access way to streets further back. Still private but with a view.
 A clever bit of urban design in the ways the buildings and access ways are arranged. About 5 minutes’ walk away there is a supermarket, small by Halswell standards but with most things you need- and more . I love exploring supermarkets overseas.
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The Supermarket has an in-house bakery which is much better than that at Halswell and the medium sized almond and jam biscuits made my grocery expeditions easy to manage.
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I did not restrict my tastings to these though but they were the best. Some bakery offerings are tricks though – they look absolutely delicious and end up being pastry with a bit of something on top. A taste con! I bought one back to the house and Ellie wisely said “you will be disappointed with that” She was right.


On our first trip to the supermarket with Ellie we had to return a crate of beer bottles. Beer is quite an important food in Germany and although available in cans the majority of that drunk at home is from bottles. Re-used bottles. When you buy the initial ale you pay a tax which you receive back when you return the bottles. You can see the white wear marks on the bottles to show they have been through the cleaners a few times. What a pity NZ gave up this scheme. Returning bottles and getting the money back was a very lucrative fundraiser for scouts, schools etc and Geoff and Murray reminisced on the feeling of real glee when you found a motherload in someone’s back garden or shed.
The apartment position is excellent for other reasons as well, easy connect to the Autobahn for Duncan for his commute, and easy and very pleasant cycle ride onto the old city centre for general shopping, museums, choirs and restaurants and the railway station to other parts of Germany. The fact that there are at least three restaurants within a 2 minute walk is a real positive when you just feel like a night whithout cooking. Take your pick, Italian where the owner speaks to Ellie in Italian and smiles at them when they enter as they are locals, the Greek restaurant is the same in the local treatment but the beer bar next door with its bowling alley does not feel the same. The age group of the regulars is a bit older than our two kiwis.
Oldenburg is not an obvious destination for young Kiwis flying from home but it is a beautiful small city. 30 minutes by regular train from Bremen and about 1 hour from Hanover. When Ellie and Duncan were looking for things to do in the city as part of becoming involved and meeting people they found there is a whole book of clubs to join. So many choirs but Ellie found one to suit her. It is a Youth choir and she thinks she is one of the older members, but that doesn’t really matter. Some of the others are still students but also studying her kind of subjects so obviously good people. Duncan has joined a rugby club but when we were there he was “looking forward” to his appointment with the Dr which would give him an appointment with the specialist so he could then get a date for his knee operation. After a number of years of not playing rugby because of study commitments and wonky feet he was finally back into the game and then his knee failed him!
P1000090It is fantastic having the bikes with the van. My bike is good for me and although Geoff’s looks a bit small for him it is still much more useful than not having it at all. From the apartment it is a 15-20 minute walk and a 6-7 minute bike ride along some quiet streets and a bit of small city stuff but on BIKE PATHS. You go out for dinner or to some event and take your bike and so long as your have a light and can steer the trip home is as safe as you want it to be. I love the light feeling of grabbing the bike and setting off into town, knowing it is not too far and there are no hills. Wind may be an issue around their area though.

 
 Ellie and I did an Ikea visit on our bikes and returned with full baskets and carriers, but did delay the big stuff purchasing until we had the van available.
Oldenburg is quite flat, in fact very flat. Very much like Holland where the big hills are onto the big dykes. Ellie and I went for a walk one day to the hill. The men were watching a Super Rugby match and we left. The hill was once a large waste disposal site and has since been planted over and paths have been added. There are views for the top of the whole area but as it is only just above the trees height the views are very green. Still lovely though. It is an obvious running area for people but Ellie did say that when she would run there in the colder seasons the grass was not long and so the detritus of late night visitors was very obvious. On our visit the grass was long, the wild flowers were blooming, enough for my flower girls to pick bunches to take home and to practice bunch gathering and to discuss the flower options for her wedding at home in January. I loved it.
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P1000015When Ellie was little she would gather a variety of flowers on her walk home from school and present me with her special bunches when she walked up the steps. My flower girl. 
 
 
 
 






Oldenburg has one of those wonderful central areas in the old city. Beautiful big old church, cobbled streets, cute old buildings and small narrow pedestrianized streets, a classy old Schloss and some good market square places with lots of cafes surrounding the market to make the people watching easy.
On our first morning we rode into town with Ellie. I needed walking shoes for the mountain but we wanted to explore her place. A farmers market was in the main square and it was excellent. We wandered and then Papa and daughter sat and chatted and I wandered more. The bread, cheese, fungi, Honey, flowers etc. etc. – A wee bit too close to heaven.
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The church which is very grand and striking and dominating from the outside is a real let down once you step inside. The perils of changes of ownership and focus. The interior is boring and over simple and for me there were none of the respectful and calm feelings you get in many of these grand churches. One of the many “bosses” of this area decided to change it to suit his particular preferences at some stage. So much change so often just because someone feels like it and wants to put his, usually, stamp on things. A bit like us with our houses probably but just on a much more grand and public scale. It is so often not “add to “but is instead, change utterly.
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Why is it that clothing, in particular good looking outdoor useful clothing is so much cheaper in Europe than in New Zealand? Sorry Macpac and Kathmandu, you are just a wee bit boring as far as colour design and range of sizes and style. We found a very good outdoor shop which had the full price but may be at sale price stuff on one side of the street and then the outlet site on the other side of the street. A huge range of possible footwear for me and everything else I could ever want but luckily could not fit into my pack even though I have now found a home for the New Zealand food parcels. Geoff found his Meindl boots not significantly cheaper than NZ but a good range of other options as well. Geoff and I went back the following Monday and I bought a very good pair of Meindl walking shoes with the good heels that the assistant advised would be necessary on the mountain. Insoles for Geoff to provide the cushion for his older man heels and soles – as advised by our neighbour David. Shopping is not a frequent joint experience for us so for us both to buy something in the same shop was a bit of a coup. Making hay while the sun shines and don’t push your luck Wendy. One purchase per expedition is enough for Geoff.
P1000205I know I walk fast and in my own direction when we are in different places and that means I get ahead of people but one of the good things about that is stopping and waiting and looking back and seeing the current child we are with wandering along with their father chatting. A very good picture in my head. It can also mean we all lose sight of each other and the finding can take time but that is a small price to pay!!
 
 
 




Oldenburg has a magnificent beautiful lemon coloured old Schloss at the entrance to the old pedestrian city.
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That Schloss also had a beautiful garden which has been retained although a road now runs through it. The city this year is celebrating 200 years of the garden and so the focus of the central city was on gardening.  Your garden is the world. Perfect. There were small demonstration gardens around the central city depicting different styles of garden which have been popular over the last 200 years. So many flowers, so well cared for and providing strong coloured displays throughout the city as an addition to those in window boxes, on balconies and hanging off bridges.
Ellie had some pot plants on their deck and the lavender and rosemary were really healthy. She wanted some more --- I think she did, but it could have just been me encouraging her to have more, to add to these and the herbs and roses in the big pots. We went to the garden shops which are easy walking distance from the house. One in particular had beautiful healthy plants and felt good as it also sold Fairtrade bunches of flowers ---- not imported ones from exploited growers. Gardens are often about memories and so it was not a surprise that we ended up with some small spicy sweet smelling pinks which my mother used to grow, a red fuchsia like I have at home, a good tomato plant, some more herbs and a range of other whites and yellows – cottagey but fitting for the deck. We also sniffed many roses to get another one with the right smell. Roses are beautiful when they are in flower but they have to earn their place to compensate for the prickles and the perfume is a good payment.
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We did not but one of the “fairy toothbrush” plants the shop had for sale even though there are memories attached to that as well. This plane can easily become a rampant weed in New Zealand and seeing it for sale reminded me of the ad I have from an old Farming newspaper which advertises ulex europaeus plants at 1000 plants for £1. Ideal hedging plant!!!
It was fun and so satisfying to help her add to her garden on the deck – just as if we lived just down the road from each other. We bought some bigger pots and some cleaner for the deck to help remove moss which has accumulated over time with a lack of care by previous tenants. When we returned a few weeks later Ellie had applied it and scrubbed very hard and the deck looked much better and was a lot less slippery.
During our Ikea visit – I do like that place- just for the huge range of things they have and I quite like the meatballs, we bought some solar lights to add to the deck and pondered over ,may other things but were wise. Near the end of our Ikea visit a woman came up to me and said “Are you English? I have been listening to you as you walked around and wondered.” She was English and had recently moved near to Oldenburg after many years in Warsaw. I think she was a bit nostalgic for a real English sounding voice so I obliged and chatted. She had been to New Zealand – only the South Island and spent time in Christchurch and bought one of the wizards upside down maps for her son. I do love these small bits of serendipity when travelling.
P1000137P1000136Geoff had a bit of work to do when we were in Oldenburg but we did go exploring the neighbourhood one evening. Just walk and see what you see and where you end up hoping you remember the way home. Google maps are not fool proof! Lots of small alleyways which lead nowhere and shared narrow roads which are more like shared driveways. It was a surprise though to find cigarette and toy vending machines on  the corners of someof these small suburban streets.

















We explored the local eating places and many beers were tested. A large range of alcohol frie and alcohol full. The Greek restaurant over the road, the round Mexican one in town with the wonderful collection of historic photos of Oldenburg, real German sausage and beer place on the first night, Italian over the road and many of the little cafes and bars scattered around the city.
The World Cup was in full swing and although none of us are mad soccer fans the players are impressive and it is easy to get swept along with the enthusiasm of the event, even if there is a cloud in the back of your head as you remember the huge costs of staging it and the minimal amount of the prosed benefit the local people in Brazil will get from it. Duncan had stated that he would stop watching as soon as someone took a dive, referring to the amount of what appear to be stoppages for fake injuries etc. A bit much drama from the players. He showed greater staying power though and Ellie bought out the flags and garlands in German colours.
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We had tried to coordinate part of our Oldenburg visit to coincide with part of Murray and Sue, Duncan’s parents visit to the town.
It worked and Ellie and Duncan had two nights with both lots of parents on the premises. A big family experience. Murray and Sue arrived on the Friday evening after flying to Bremen via Paris from Provence. Their luggage was delayed as it missed the flight in Paris. It could either be delivered from Bremen but someone would have to be at home to take delivery or someone could drive back to Bremen to pick it up. That was the preferred course of action so Duncan and Murray drove out later in the evening while Sue, Ellie Geoff and I wandered into town to a food and wine festival. The rain had mainly cleared by this time but had caused a minor drama earlier in the evening when a big downpour caused ponding on the awning on the deck where we were all sitting. Geoff took into account where everyone was sitting and pushed at the awning to remove the water. His calculations were slightly awry though and the water splashed much more than expected and the new arrivals with only the clothes they were wearing felt the effect. Ah families!!!  No pictures of the wet family but  Sue looks as if she has forgiven Geoff in this one of  our visit to the food festival. Thank goodness! There was more rain to come.
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Sunday, July 13, 2014

Blue Pearl on the road again

We feel confident landing at Schiphol now – been there done that many times and this time worked just as we had planned.  Hadn’t heard from Anjo but we would head out that way anyway and try to contact her from Goes and if that didn’t work we would just catch the bus. No hassle. We were good at this. The train is easy and has WIFI on it so we sat back with plenty of room and caught upon messages and watched the green fields of the Netherlands slide past as the very earnest looking Dutch people returned home at the end of the day. It was late evening but still very light so felt like day to us. Goes is not pronounced as if it has anything to do with going to places. It is much more a HHooose.  Anjo arrived smiling at the station just as the train did, a bit surprised we had arrived a day earlier than expected.  A small mix up but all ok. Zierikzee felt so familiar.   We did all the catch up stuff and said Hi to her friend Elisabeth who was busy chopping up vegetables for the birthday party the following day.  Elizabeth lived in New Zealand for a few years when her parents emigrated in the 50’s. It was not a successful emigration though and although Elizabeth’s dad was a kiwi the family moved back to the Netherlands from the sheep farm he had in New Zealand. He then went mushroom farming in Limburgh near an area of pioneer mushroom people and eventually to another family farm which Elisabeth’s brother still owns – after nearly 6 generations it is about to be sold as no family are interested. We talked of the strong women who have been involved in this operation and have made sure that the farm was retained for as long as it was. We heard more of the story the next day when we went round to her house to meet up again with the Blue Pearl which she and her husband had given safe harbour to on their drive. So many people moving around the world and setting up new lives and then moving on again.  The ties of home are very strong and seem to make it hard to really sink your souls into new places.

Anjo’s house is a very old Dutch Canal house, actually two houses pulled together and she is in the process of reconfiguring the upstairs part of it. 
What were the children’s big rooms are being rearranged into a flat for visitors both paying and otherwise.  A big project and one which has given the children a wee jolt but also gives Anjo something to get her teeth into with painting and dealing with contractors. There is an old Chinese saying  for parents which has been  anglicised as “you are only free when the children leave home and the dog dies” --- the reverse could be  for children “ it is  time to create your own home when your parents pull down the walls of  your room and start throwing out your pictures.” Maybe a bit severe but there is a moving on time. Mothers find it hard to throw out the pictures though!

As we lay in bed in the morning we thought again how public these houses are. Right on the canal or old harbour in this case, with big windows looking out to the world and the passers bay. The living areas are on the upper stories in this case  so not at direct eye level  as in many houses but people do look up and will wave if you wave back. Anjo sits at her dining table and her friends out walking wave to her and she can watch the world go by. A real sense of community is created and fostered or you can feel you are in a goldfish bowl. Maybe it depends on the expectations of those doing the looking in and out? We try to fence out the world   or stay private behind gardens but many places here seem to decorate their front world faces to entertain the world. The football world cup was in its early stages and Holland was in with a chance so many houses had some orange focus in their window displays along with the delicate framing lace curtains and flowers and other often very stylish additions.  These make the street wanders you do on holiday even more interesting.  Being a voyeur but with permission.

Anjo has also just had major restoration work done on the outside of her houses. Because her building is of historical significance there are special loans you are able to get but the cost is still substantial. The entrance door onto the harbour is now very elegant and restored to its original imposing state. So many of the doors along this way are made to be looked at and not just passed by. The original owners were making statements about themselves and their houses. They are now just beautiful.

We spent the first whole day inn Zierikzee sorting the van, fixing the awning with the help of Elizabeth’s husband Franz, helping Anjo with her party preparations, and reacquainting ourselves with this cute wee place.  Anjo has a big family and birthdays are special. I love the singing and enthusiasm of these occasions. We have met most of the family before and many of her friends so it is a reunion but we do feel that they all relax more when we are not there to be included as although their English is very good the language of relaxing is Dutch.   
Geoff needed a haircut so he had one along with a beard trim and while he did that I went shoe shopping – so successfully in fact that when I showed him my goods he bought some as well. A small shop in  a side street selling sports gear at discount prices and my pair of very smart comfortable and light Regatta walking shoes cost me $NZ 60 and his  hiking shoes cost him $NZ 75. 3 weeks later they have been declared a success and that is a miracle!!
Anjo stocks us up on cheese – the hard Dutch cheese with Fenugreek in it that Geoff really likes and the BIG white fluffy bread and Geoff buys his raisin buns. Comfort food. The bakery does not open as early as the ones in France so when we do our early morning prowl around the streets – trying to get some more walking in as part of our Mont Blanc preparation there are no wee shops to stop at. Drat.
Anjo has another family birthday to attend on the third night but we decide it is better to have an early night after watching the Netherlands team play Australia in one of their games in the World Cup. There are a couple of bars on the waterfront where we have sat many times and so we pick a seat in amongst some very passionate orange dressed fans. BBQ chicken skewer and wine and we settle in to cheer for the team of the country we are currently in. We are fickle fans.  The focus of the fans is varied. Many are incredibly orange in their attire but a bit isolated from the game, others are very conservative in their dress but sitting up close and serious to the screen.  On the first near goal by the Australians, a very stressed and loud “Jesus” came from the group around us. They were worried and this was not what they expected.

A large white 300SD Mercedes cruised along amongst the people thronging over the road -- the driver a large chap with a Tom Selleck moustache. They looked like old hoods. It then sped backwards down the road again. Just checking!!
The cheers for a Dutch goal were huge – so huge they all missed the Australian goal and there was silence. Just a wee quiet giggle inside Wendy.
Maybe people looking at New Zealanders see similarities but some I noticed among the mass of people watching this game  --- I did get a bit side-tracked – were
·         Suntanned
·         Haircuts of the young men all very short on sides and long on top
·         Older men either shaved low or flowing locks.
·         Women in boots
·         Very tight t shirts or tops irrespective of the shape underneath
·         High heels and trousers
·         Blond and tanned and not necessarily skinny
·         Broad shoulders, solid and stylish in an individual way.
When the Dutch finally won the noise was huge with tooters, horns etc. and went on for ages.
Small towns have a special flavour to them.   Both social and physical. The early morning smells are of the gentle rain and grass but also horse manure in the cobbles.
We wandered round early in the morning looking at the tilting houses and some of the bricks being eroded – reminded us a bit of our house at home but also makes me think about how much and how often some of these houses have been restored and patched up. Some are very old but still here and not in perfect condition but still very liveable. Why are we so focussed in Christchurch on returning houses to excellent   condition?
 We picked up our bikes from the farm they were stored at and handed over the whiskey payment. The tyres were flat but good once pumped up. Geoff had been planning new wheels as they are very narrow but as soon as he got on again he remembered how uncomfortable the position of the bike is for him. Maybe just leave them as they are.
Everything loaded into and onto the van we set off on the adventure in the Blue Pearl – heading to Ellie and Duncan in Oldenburg but a couple of housing projects to look at on the way.

The plan was to head for Almere and Nijmegen following up some links we had been given by contacts in New Zealand. The focus is affordable and possibly self-build housing with a community focus.
We went first to Nijmegen and the Vossenpels area. The initial impression was of a large new area of buildings and not what we were really interested in. But we had an address and drove to – past it actually – but   eventually we parked and walked around. Some small houses being built but so what!! How do we find out more?  


 


We walked over the road to a large new building under development and found magic. It was a large community housing development for about 150 people at the entrance to an open area with a fairly rudimentary road which led us on. As we walked in I recognised some of the buildings I had seen on websites. We had found the place. How to find out more. We looked at and criticized cladding and house design. We thought about section size. We thought about lack of fences and proximity to the road through the development; we looked at roofing styles and materials and I then decided I was going to attempt to talk to someone.
I had seen a woman in one house and she was my target. With fingers crossed for her having some English, I headed for the small grass roofed house on a corner. The garden was wildflowers and very new and the small front path had a random and uncertain manner. The owner was just walking down it as I walked up to the house.  She spoke good English and was very happy and proud to talk about her house and the whole development. She had been in her house, of her own design, for about 2 months and had the beautiful photo books describing its development on her table.  The information flowed out of her and we later received an email with the extra details Geoff asked for. 






 Such an incredibly worthwhile and positive stop and we were able to tell her about our Cooperative Sections project which she followed up later. Her house was small but perfect for her and her husband with room for visitors and her role as an art teacher. It was self-built as were most of the houses in the development. The house was wooden and the roof was topped with peat bags from Norway.
We left smiling and decided that after that long stop and the heap of information we had gathered we would delay our visit to Almere and head straight for Oldenburg.
 Needed coffee though so off the motorway and into Heere. I think we came here on our initial van hunt but maybe many of these places look the same. We now had even more of a house style and community planning focus in our heads.
The fish cart was set up in the main street and the grey day made the hot offerings look even more delicious and tempting. We were.  A packet of hot Kibbeling was perfect but the coffee and advocaat and chocolate cheesecake topped off the stop added even more.
The Netherlands merged into Northern Germany almost imperceptibly and I did wonder why these people ever fight each other. They are the same.
 One more stop before Oldenburg for a quick dinner. This one was at a mall style of place with a huge hardware and supermarket complex. It was late in the day but parts were still open. Think Warehouse combined with Mitre 10 and pack’n’save  on steroids
I left Geoff eating his sausage and went to explore the supermarket. There was more alcohol there than I have ever seen in my life and some I never want to see again. The different colours of F… alcohol really made me wonder. All the coffee of the day did mean we needed to explore the toilets and Geoff came back reflecting on the  fluorescent lights in his --- a bit like the Brothel lights which used to be on the dairy at Halswell. Not saying it was a brothel, just that is what the lights suggested to me. I went to the Dames version and yes the same lights but the toilet paper dispenser really made me smile.


The beach huts for sale also reminded me I was in a different pat of the world. These will  never be trendy at Le Bons. 



20 mins later I hugged my lovely big girl and her young chap and I was a very  very happy Mum. 

Tuesday, July 8, 2014

Small pork dumplings and small notes

I  have a notebook I write wee snippets of what I see when we are away, even if it is just in Nelson or Akaroa. To include all of these in detail makes for too heavy a read so this segment is the snippets but does include success in the dumpling hunt.  At the end of Saturday I sent Barney- our Asian food guru, a WhatsApp to ask where the best food was. Easy and obvious answer for him “go to China town”.  I knew what he meant but to me the whole city was actually China town!!
Our second 24 hours in Shanghai started with a decision to walk only in burst and too make the most of the last few hours of our bus card. I had blisters which were looking pretty impressive  and Geoff’s feet were tending that way so feet up on the bus learning a bit and taking in the sights seemed a good idea. I am sure Confucius said something very wise about making the most of all available tools to make the most of life.
 So the snippets are
·         Early morning in a large metropolis. We were out stepping at 7am with a cuppa and a Danish butter biscuit for sustenance until we found something better. Many people are more alert than we are and indulging in the peace of a Sunday morning. 




     The Hua Hai Park near Times Square was full in the most calm and uplifting way of groups of people being healthy. It was a Shanghai gym in the best surroundings. So much better than being in one of the huge buildings surrounding the park.  We marvelled at the calm and confidence of the first group of middle aged and older women performing with ribbons. So much better than any cheer leading group I have ever seen. The music with this group was also good which probably helped. But even peaceful and character building exercise can be competitive and a new group started up in the same part of the park. Their music was louder!! So when group one began their next piece they increased their volume!!!
We, the non-participant voyeurs smiled and walked further into the park. We met the bird men. The bird song was as close to a cacophony as a bird song can get, but Geoff, a birds egg collector and watcher from way back, complained he could not see any birds.   Geoff, remember what you have learned from your Chinaman friend Barney ---you are in China – things are done in mysterious ways. The birds were in cages – some open to the world and singing gloriously, and others with their velvet covers over them having a Sunday sleep-in.   Their very proud owners/minders were busy managing them and I assume discussing the merits of their particular avian. We left the park and headed for a coffee house Geoff had sniffed out the previous day. “Just like the “Addington Coffee Company” he said. He mis- spoke. It was nothing like that and when he stepped inside in need of a good coffee he realised how tired he must have been to even think such a thing. So although we had coffee and bread there while we watched and tried to understand the soccer we did not brunch there!!
·         We did not brunch there but we did love the statues close to this and elsewhere in Shanghai.   A city which can support artists to create and craft big and beautiful things just for the populace to enjoy is a positive city. The sculpture near the café is of a person on a bicycle. As we walked past a young Dad was out walking with his young son and enjoying the art of the city. 


      There are a lot of these bronze sculptures in the city and they feel good. I wondered when the regime in power decided it was OK to have this kind of art. Something to look into at a later date. Maybe looking at City art could be an alternative and worthwhile focus for this wander?
·         The trees in Shanghai are a saving grace for a city which seems to be focussed on extreme architecture. These trees are beautiful. We have them around out bottom garden partly because a neighbour, Jane Wardell told me they were very wind resistant. She was correct, thank goodness but they are also strong survivors in city environments. Some have been planted for a long time and have been well tended, others are new, and others are suffering from the toxic environment they live in both above and below ground. It is special though that they have not been trimmed to their limits just to let traffic through!!

  the many trees are beautiful –dogwoods, magnolias azaleas….
·         I am a very mediocre orienteer and navigator. I love living in a city which has now, even more than a few years ago, high points I can connect too. Markers! Shanghai and some other cities label their street sign with the compass points. Good idea but it is still necessary to know what they mean
·         The Big bus commentary mentioned many things. I haven’t checked the veracity but they were interesting.
o   Many more religions are now accepted in China, 5 officially accepted ones. Confucism is the most popular way of thinking but it is more a philosophy of life than a religion --- but then what is a religion?
o   The big Buddhist temple we rode past has a lot of gold on it and contains a 6.2 meter tall and 5 ton weight camphorwood statue.
o   Religious buildings are often yellow in colour reflecting the colour of the Yellow river and linking this to good Fengshui building. It seemed to us that this rationale meant that Fengshui was only of relevance if you also followed the religion connected to it so no point at all for an atheist kiwi trying to design a house.  I loved the smell of incense in the air as we rode past the temple.
o   Shanghainese is the largest dialect of NW China. The National language is Mandarin but Shanghainese and other dialects remain strong.
·         The Aesthetic hospital had pictures of beautiful people on its outside walls.  This is what we can do for you!! Just come and say Hi and we will check your bank balance.
·         Sitting happily on the top of the bus as it did the tour we became aware of the young couple slightly behind and across from us. Looking normal but he kept trying to kiss her and she was not happy. To the extent of putting up with it and keeping her eyes open and watching the world in a panicking way. Yes, I was staring but I was not comfortable with her unease and her obvious desire not to be involved. I gave him the look and willed her to say NO. Eventually he gave up and looked very grumpy and annoyed --- lucky for him though as I was preparing my speech while also being aware of the fact he may have become very angry with me. They climbed off the bus and she walked stiffly along beside him with him gripping her. In New Zealand I would have asked if she was OK but it was harder here but maybe no less necessary. I still feel uncomfortable about this.
·         So much fruit for sale by street vendors with bamboo baskets and in shops. Rambutans, watermelon, cherries, loquats, lychees, plums and the odd durian.
·         The Dumpling experience. The dumplings I was after are called xiaolongbao Shanghai is famous for them and the introductory movie on the plane had given instructions on how to eat them. I had only tasted tough, tasteless ones. We walked the back streets on a mission and found the place. Not flash and colourful but colourful with older characters and extremely busy. I had a picture in my bag of what I wanted and showed it to the cashier at the door.  Her afce said yes and she indicated what we needed to do. Pay her 7 and take a seat and they would arrive. Geoff also ordered a beer and we sat. The dumplings arrived and were glorious. Nip off the top, suck the juice and then devour the rest. Do wait a wee bit though as these treasures are extremely hot and potentially tongue burning. Dumplings are now to me what satay sticks were when we went to Malaysia in 1981.  We ordered another basket and shared Geoff’s beer.  
 People looked at us and at one stage I wondered if we were in someone’s favourite seat but then just relaxed into being part of the entertainment.

·         Shanghai Urban Planning Exhibition centre --- a sort of Museum is in the centre of People’s Square and was fascinating. Big diorama of Shanghai and large and easy to understand photographic displays of Shanghai old and the dreamed of new.  The differences between old and new are extreme and maybe reflects the power of authority to just make things happen and not take a lot of notice of what the populace say. Couple that with a lot of incentive for very rich companies to come and set up – both old and modern and we have a very different result to that in Christchurch.

·         We rose early on the last day to have a quick breakfast and watch the early morning city. A 7am coffee and pastry at a European style place – it was open. The whole area was not as busy as we expected but lots of school children heading off in their white shirts, some with their heads in books of characters even at the traffic lights. There were traffic wardens at all the corners and even at that time the metro was not busy but we would still take the cheap taxi.
·         Taxi had a seatbelt warning sign but we could not do them up. It was a lot cheaper than the first trip, no taxi chat.  The only real interest was the woman on the motorway trying to hail our taxi as hers had stopped. We did not stop.
·         The flight was good KLM and an interesting fellow passenger. A mid 30 year old Chinese woman who works in Stockholm and had just been home to see her widowed father. He lived 9 hours on a fast train from Shanghai. She feels her responsibilities strongly but finds it difficult to go home and stay with him and his 3 birds and 2 frogs in his small apartment. We talked about impressions of Shanghai and China. Her father puts his birds out in their cages on a pole each morning --- so they feel as if they are in open.  What I had seen as a positive in the gym sessions in the park has caused real aggro in some developments as it is too noisy for some and not noisy enough for others.  My companion enjoys the openness of government and life  in Sweden but is very proud of her 1000 year + history in China although she is sad her parents could not be educated as her Granddad was in prison for 22 years. Sad for the losses of her parent’s generation.

An excellent end to a mini Chinese experience.